Alfred Gratien Cuvée Paradis Brut 2006 is supremely seductive and will remain so for many years yet. Fresh, intensely savoury with hay, gingerbread and toasty autolytic flavours, it is expansive, generous and dry. If you like a richer, oxidative style of Champagne, this Epernay-based maison is one of the great ‘go to’ houses to find it.