Ugolaia is a 1.7ha southwest-facing plot that looks out toward the sea, where temperature swings between day and night are significant. Here, the estate’s oldest vines grow on red irony soil. This wine is not produced every vintage, but it clearly made sense in 2013 when neither Lisini’s Riserva nor the regular Brunello suffered, and the Ugolaia demonstrated why it’s a special site. It’s still very backward but all is in place in this deftly sculpted Brunello. Nuances of wild cherry, lavender, moist soil and balsamic herbs emerge little by little. The tannins are assertive but fully ripe and sophisticated, demonstrating the wine’s breed. This is concentrated yet vibrant, with appetising saline and iron notes resonating on the long finish.